the journey back in time

By Pat Law • Jan 19th, 2010 • Category: Features, The Lonely Travellor

I wrote previously on how the complimentary walk provided by The Majestic Malacca is to die for. At risk of being a historical spoiler, allow me to share my experience with you the journey back in time in the rich history of this extraordinary empire.

Firstly, a bit of background (stuff like that somehow always impresses others anyway). Founded centuries ago by a Sumatran price named Parameswara, Malacca grew to become a powerful sultanate and the centre of the lucrative spice trade, visited by Arab, Tamil and Chinese merchants. Subjected to dominance by the Portuguese, Dutch and British respectively, the city is a unique gem reflecting the past of each occupant.

The 10am walk thangdynasty and I took shortly after breakfast began along the Malacca River, at the foot where The Majestic Malacca rests. Stories and legends unfold as the historical city awakes with the guide of our articulate resident historical guide, Donovan Louis.

This guided walk begins at The Majestic Malacca and passes through significant landmarks of the city’s history along the river ending at one of the oldest remnants of Portuguese colonial presence, the Porta de Santiago or A’Famosa Fort.

Our two-hour walk included:

  • Sungai Melaka (Malacca River)
  • Kampung Morten
  • The ruins of St. Lawrence Church
  • Jalan Bunga Raya & Kampung Java
  • The Stadthuys
  • The Victorian Fountain
  • The Tan Beng Swee Clock
  • St.Paul’s Hill
  • Porta de Santiago

Enjoy the snapshots of history captured on that very journey below.


What was once the home to God, destroyed and now used as a carpark.


Do you know that there are trees that sweat??? I didn’t know it either but apparently, this last remaining tree sweats salt for human consumption.


From across the river, we could hear birds chirping but there were no birds in sight. Turns out, it was a recorder installed by shrewd businessmen luring the swallows into their industrial building as you see in this picture for that lucrative produce – bird’s nest.


What the Dutch left behind.


Don’t let the state of these homes fool you. The affluent Chinese in Malacca aren’t typically fond of flaunting their wealth, and would much rather stay in such living conditions with a monthly rent of merely 50 ringgit. These houses are owned by various Chinese clans in the city and are heavily subsidized.


Clogs were introduced by the Dutch during their occupancy. And to think I thought it was from China! Sadly, like in Singapore, clog making is a dying trade in Malacca.


Regular tour guides probably won’t talk about this bridge, but I’m thankful Donovan did. This bridge is found at the forefront of the route women used to take to get to the market in the mornings. During World War II, the Japanese would decapitate the heads of the women’s fathers, husbands, brothers and friends and hang them by this bridge. I have nothing against the Japanese now, mind you. I’m just glad history was told as is.


The Indian Gooseberry tree of which apparently, Malacca was named after. No, I think the myth’s about how some fugitive prince was impressed that a rat managed to scare off his dog and thereafter named the city he stumbled upon after the tree he was under is pretty far fetched.


We took a break and had authentic local coffee at this shophouse. The coffee was excellent.


The famous red Christ Church. Due to a lack of resources back in the day, the Dutch tore down Portuguese’s’ tombstones in order to produce floor tiles for the church. Imagine that.


This clock tower is unique in such that the passage way doesn’t go upwards but rather, downwards. Donated by some Mr Tan businessman, this clock tower served as a secret exit route from the governor’s house in the event of attacks.


Many of us credit Abraham Lincoln for demolishing slavery but guess what? Our dear Queen Victoria actually beat him to it years before. This water fountain was erected as a tribute to her for relieving us of such human cruelty.


I couldn’t stop laughing when I saw this. Malaysians are so much ahead of time, they have a museum for democracy.


One of the most beautiful architecture I’ve ever seen – the remains of St. Francis Xavier Church.


The significant Saint Francis Xavier.


Inside St. Francis Xavier Church.


Members of Freemasonry were sworn to secrecy of their affiliation with the fraternity for as long as they lived. As, the only time they are able to declare their identity proudly is upon death, on their tombstones. The skull and crossbones are a symbol of Freemasonry. Yeah, I was stoked to learn of this too.


The A’Famosa Fortress is one of the oldest surviving remnants of European architecture in Asia. Once part of a mighty fortress, this tiny gate known as the Porta de Santiago, is all that history has spared. Quite interestingly, the fort was to be demolished by the British and it could’ve happened if not for Sir Stanford Raffles (yeah, our guy). He persuaded the English to not demolish Porta de Santiago for history’s sake. That explains the palm tree planted next to this fort. It was planted in tribute to him.


The gate’s entrance is built in a spiral manner so that the mostly right-handed soldiers would be able to swing their swords from behind the pillar at intruders.


This is why I think the Indian Gooseberry tree myth is a little far fetched. Explorers from the world of colonies knew that they were on a one-way ticket to a new home. As a tribute to one’s motherland, the explorers often named the city after the port of which they have departed from. Does Malaga sound familiar?

I wish you were with us when we went back in time that day. You can’t put a price to an experience like this, really.

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2 Responses »

  1. it was a mousedeer… not rat :)

  2. Thanks for your posts – I am going to stay at the Majestic this weekend – this and TangDynasty have been very helpful! Thanks!

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